Alinea

Charlie Trotters (08/14/09)

Charlie trotter was a self-taught chef whose pursuit for perfection had pushed his name sake restaurant "Charlie Trotter" into one of the top restaurants in the world. The restuarnt was situated in a european style house near DePaul University. The dining room consisted two floors. Two menu choices were available: the vegetable and the grand menu. Guests were free to ask for any accomodations.

Kumamoto Oyster with Perseved Radish & Sake

Champagne Laurent Perrier "Brut L. -P." NV

The Kumamoto oyster was its usual self: briny and succluent. It paired well with the yuzu sake gelee. The perseved radish added a touch of fresheness.

Cold-Poached Cod Cheek with Heirloom Tomato Relish & Thai Basil
Gruner Veltliner Smaraged "Loibner Kreutles" Knoll, Wachau 2005

Cold poached cod cheek sits in a dressing of olive oil, basil, and tomatoes. The small tomatos were the best I had, and the firm cod meat provied a nice background.


Tempura of Japanese Ayu with Iberico Chorizo & Red Plum Consomme
Neyers Chardonnay Napa Valley 2007

Charlie Trotter's version of fish and chips. The fish was crispy, and the sauce had a good balance of acidity. Though not as sophiscated, it was a good change of tempo.

Roasted squab breast and thigh
Barbera d'Alba "Vigna Martina" Elio Grasso 2005

The original grand menu was full of sea food dishes. It was well known that Mr.Trotter was a master of meat and game, I requested to have my Octopus replaced by squab. The squab breast was very tender, the skin of the legs was nicely browned, and the wine sauce was superbly executed, an impeccable dish.

Elysian Field Rack of Lamb with Preserved Lemon, Black Mission Figs & Charred Cinnamon

Ribera del Duero "Tinto Pesquera-Crianza" Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez 2005

The lamb rib chop was tender, the tongue was firm , and the belly was full of lamb fat flave. The protein was accompanied with lamb jus, mint pistachio puree, and burned cinnamon. A beautiful play of textures and very gutsy to serve in a tasting menu style. The pairing of the wine made this dish great. The alcohol in the wine carried the oil of oregano and cinnamon powder directly into my brain cavity, quite a breathtaking effect.

Red Shiso Sorbet with Mango & Grains of Paradise

Shaved Goat Chesse with Chocolate Sauce
Tokaji-Aszu "5 Puttonyos" Chateau Pazjos 1999

We asked for a cheese course in place of the red raspberries with honey & sage. Strangely, the dish is not sweet at all; the airy shave goat chess is on top of a slice of the same goat milk chesse with bitter chocolate sauce. The sweetness only came from the accompanied sweet wine.

Arbequina Olive Oil-Chocolate Chip Parfait with Fraise des Bois and Oregano
Niepoort Late Bottled Vintage Port 2004

The pairing of caramel chips, wild strawberries, olive oil worked in harmony. I wouldn't have expected that olive oil would have worked so well with caramel, a perfect finish.

Mignardises

Overall, the dinner at Charlie Trotter is my best this year which tops a starred the lineup including French Laundry, Manresa, Alinea, and Inn at Little Washington. The pairing of food and wine at Charlie Trotter is transcending, and I was blessed that night.